Many things are written on the maintenance of the discus, and can be read everything and its opposite on the sites internet and other media…
Way of life of the discus, cohabitation, water quality, or supply; This article does not claim to provide the "divine truth" but to trace the outline of the maintenance of the king fish…
A gregarious lifestyle
First, I think it is important to note that the discus is a gregarious fish that maintains preferably in Group of 5 to 6 minimum individuals.
Many of you start buying 2 to 3 individuals; the reasons cited are frequently; "I prefer to slowly start to see" or "considering the price., I prefer to begin by 2/3 fish ".
Now it is in my opinion the first classic mistake (I have the same). The discus maintained group feels secure and much better adapted to its new environment. More aggressiveness is even annihilated; dominant discus not "traumatic" not always the same fish…because our fish remains a "head bacon" cichlid.
Actually, Some will say "I don't have that", for my part I have 2 or 3 Discus and everything is fine ! and that's the charm of discus keeping (like any other animal also) There are many factors in account.
Sex ratio for example; as a "group" of three discus consisting of two males and one female will not have the same behavior as a "group" of two females and one male.
We can evoke moreover the size of the aquarium or the decoration layout . A mated pair can live together without problems.
The important thing is to observe the behavior of fish.
Let's say that you put more luck on his side with a small group of individuals. Often adding an additional discus lead to "calm" the bellicose ardor of a too dominant discus.
The cohabitation in a discus aquarium
In a second time, I think it is interesting to mention the fish live in the side of the discus…
Indeed, We have to choose the future companions of the discus, and always perform a quarantine for newcomers.
Overall, avoid fish high or too much stirring nature. Customize your choice depending on the requirements of the discus.
Think of the corydoras in selecting tolerant species high temperatures, some CHARACIDAE as classics cardinalis (Paracheirodon axelrodi) also agree; Similarly some loricaridés.
Many books evoke this topic as such «» The discus Crown "in the collection AQUALOG SPECIAL
Our dear fish environment is also very important if not the most important. An imbalance between fish and its environment can cause problems (loss of appetite, Chicken fish, respiratory disorders etc.…) or the appearance of diseases.
The book "Majestic Discus"
A good water quality: The basis of a good maintenance of the discus
Many discussions on this subject have been, and are still debate. But one thing is certain, the discus is a fish which physiologically requires little mineralized water. Although some strains have adapted to water more "limestone"; we note that for proper maintenance of discus, we will have more success by offering a low mineral water.
To properly control the water in the aquarium, equip you reliable test to test drops or electronic (for pH and conductivity). First, equip you test KH, GH, pH, nitrites and nitrates tests.
For a Lac of maintenance including KH between 2 and 4 should be with a RI between 4 and 7. of course, the pH should be between 6.5 and 7.; with a RI between 4 and 7. Naturally, the pH should be between 6.5 and 7.
The rate of nitrite should remain close to zero and below 25 mg/L nitrates. Similarly a temperature around the 28-30 degrees Celsius will be necessary.
Read also: Nitrates in the aquarium
Which water for discus?
There are 3 case of figures:
* We are fortunate to live in a region where water is slightly mineralized with low nitrate content, unpolluted: Ideal for maintenance of discus. This water lacks major pollutants. Simply well prepared with a good water conditioner (Scale Water Conditioner) – Read also " Prepare tap water"
* It has a good quality water (no nitrates, phosphates etc…) but relatively limestone. In this case a mixture of tap water (treated with a good conditioner) and osmosee water should be. Osmosis water has a low mineral content. Thus by mixing a proportion (to define) osmosee water and tap water; It gets the values that are to be.
* The water which flows from the tap at high levels of nitrates or other pollutant (phosphates, silicates, metals etc…). In this case it will not be used to much. Should be used 100% water osmosee will remineralize with specific mineral salts. (for example, mineral salts of mark PREIS, Will be or DENNERLE).
I also recommend the Deninerle Remineral +
To ensure good quality water for your fish, It must also be regular in its aquarium and its change of water maintenance. In paper tray set correctly populated by discus having finished their growth; need to change 25 to 30% the minimum aquarium volume 1 twice a week using a Bell in sand.
In addition, do not hesitate to use Catappa leaves at the rate of one leaf for 100 litres. These have many virtues and will naturally protect your fish. (You can find them on the BOUTIQUE Fanatik Animals)
The particular case : The injection of CO2 with the discus
Beginners often want to use CO2 to low the pH of the discus aquarium…
The benefits brought to plants by injection of CO2 in the aquarium are more to prove (In this regard I invite you to visit the website of the company Producer TROPICA of aquatic plants )
However its use in a discus tray must not be lightly.
Too much "dosage" can bother the discus see even cause their death. To avoid this it is imperative to carry an array of relationship KH/CO2/pH taking a margin of safety. By experience, in many cases of figure, I have observed that the discus would not tolerate same CO2 levels than other small fish.
The presence of a "permanent test" of CO2 as above is a minimum (inexpensive). The remaining ideal setting by a pH meter control valve with overnight shutdown by.
The use of CO2 should in my view take place if it is sought to obtain a beautiful planted tank. If the goal is to lower the pH of a discus aquarium, first lower the KH of your water (Thanks to osmosee for example water) and you will see your pH down naturally.
The choice of the aquarium and its equipment
What volume of water for a discus?
Do not hesitate equip you an Aquarium of at least 350 litres. Young discus may use a smaller aquarium (next to 250 litres) but growing your protected will require more space.
Adult once, your discus will require approximately 50 litres of water per person. (Maintenance of type 'set tray.)
Breeders fish are placed in larger numbers but it is farmed and no maintenance "classic.". Used aquariums do not have sand or plants because it emphasizes the practical side. Similarly the rate of change of water is higher.
Side filtration, Choose the security by choosing a good filter. I recommend the brand EHEIM external filters. They have been proven and powerful. Their maintenance is very easy which spoil nothing…a flow of 3 times the hourly volume should be with a volume of filtration in adequacy with the size of the aquarium.
Side heating, There are many brands, but many fans of discus advise you the Jäger brand distributed by Eheim.
Vary the pleasures; specific granules, (Such as the Granules of vase-shaped ) mash House for discus, frozen brine (or Freeze-dried Artemia salina), freeze-dried Tubifex, live food…
Distribute in small quantities by adapting the number of meals at the age of fish.
The bases of maintenance of discus are posed… ready to start?
Read also: The water this so important for the maintenance of the discus
For those who wish to, you can zoom into the growing number of subscribers to the site!
Feel free to subscribe to the newsletter of the blog!
You will receive all notifications of articles publications.
Instagram -> @ Fanatik.discus-Yann Hoiret
I have a tray of 400 l with 3 aptenorotus, 6 pelmatos, 1 couple of gouramis, small fish (rasboras, serpae, widows, danios) and some corydoras, kuhlis.
My bin is well planted, the acid is (peat filter), little hard (water).
No ventilation, non-CO2.
I want to put 5-6 discus, but do not know if I could do.
Your opinion ?
Get started with the discus is often the beginning of a love story!
On the other hand, to avoid some small worries, It is essential to properly prepare its draft.
You already have a volume of sufficient aquarium to get started you, This is a great point!
Level population, I advise you to review a small little one. In your case, I would set aside the pelmatos, gouramis which can be a bit too stirring for discus.
The small fish like the danios, rasboras will hardly enjoy high temperatures like the discus.
As regards the apteronotus, I confess to not having personally tried the cohabitation but I know some amateurs who have tried particular carefree. (Caution all the same this fish is supposed to grow…)
After some readjustment at this level, make a point on your water parameters. Having acidic water is one thing, but I strongly advise you to check your water hardness, your nitrate etc.… equip you to specific tests or test your water by requesting accurate results.
I invite you to read this article : http://www.fanatik-discus.com/2010/02/comprendre-les-principaux-parametres-deau/
Be aware that the majority of problems encountered with the discus have caused a defect of water quality…
Last thing, Discus and planted tank are seldom Bedfellows… hard indeed to find the right balance with so high temperatures. But some arrive! In this regard I suggest you browse the excellent site of mine from Tropica! (link in article).
Hoping you answer your questions.
Hi This is Arnaud,
Discus are doing wonderfully.
I have just a concern with a dominant that scared off the 4 others it is placed in the center of the tray and attack others as soon as there's one that comes out of his corner.
An idea ????
This happens… The discus sometimes remind us that they belong to the family of cichlids with its good and its bad sides!
In such a case, either it does not last, It can be the beginning of the formation of a couple.
If the disorders are repeated and hard… the best is to add an additional discus existing group to annihilate the aggressiveness.
Of course if the size of the tray, the dimensioning of the filter, bin population allow!
Hoping that everything fits into the order!
Hello, I would like to launch a new aquarium with the Discus but I do not know if 260 L is enough (?)
I would like to with those of the dwarf gouramis, bleeding hearts and red if nose is possible.
In addition a co2 system to a well tank planted
is that my idea is good ?
Sorry for the late reply…
... So… For the volume; technically, maintain the discus in 260 litres is possible. But it will require a lot of maintenance, quite a lot of observation.
You will put more chances on your side with a larger aquarium. 350/450 litres would be better.
In one 260 litres, You can place a group of 5/6 small discus and need you may be separate you from some of them once they will be big…
There will be more trouble because you have to change quite a lot of water…
I will avoid the dwarf gouramis, Colisa lalia are often healthy carriers of quite a lot of things…
For hearts bleeding, I don't see a problem as long as they are maintained in the bench.
When it comes to a bin very well planted with discus with CO2; my opinion will be mixed…
The problem comes from the fact that the plants and the discus do not really have the same needs. Make a well planted aquarium, more importantly with CO2 depends on the balancing…
The plants love CO2, and the discus. not too… Plants like light, and the discus appreciates moderately… The discus like heat, but most plants not at all… etc…etc…
Short, you understand me… It won't be easy!
I do not say that it is impossible, just need to check and adjust a lot of parameters…
I was just discussing this topic a few days ago with a confirmed aquascaper… He confessed to me the difficulty of the project (Beautiful aquarium planted + discus)
Hoping this helps you…
You can go for a walk in the "Fanatik-Discus TV" and see a nice "Hardscape" made for a discus tank.
I also put the Juwel Rio 300.
I'd like proposals for fish that I put with my discus; knowing I want to recreate an Amazon biotope as faithfully as possible.
And also plants which takes in such temperatures.
Oh… I forgot how to change the settings of my water ?
Thanks in advance
A large volume will be preferable.
For fish, prefer individuals smaller than your future discus. Your volume will not allow you to host another great fish species.
You will have the choice with some thoracocharax, or carnegiella. Why not a pair of apistogramma, the Characidae etc…
For plants, I invite you to visit the website of my friends of Tropica, a Danish company for the production of aquarium plants. You will be a great help! There is a French version. (tropica.com)
With regard to water, I discussed quite extensively the subject in the "Novice" tab of the site Fanatik-Discus…
If you have any questions, do not hesitate to ask me at the end of each article.
I wish you good reading!
What is the ideal size for purchase of discus and how can I put an Aquarium of 400 litres?
Don't buy too many small discus. To begin, I advise you not to purchase discus less 7/8 cm. If you take a little bigger, is that better; but will be also more expensive.
In your aquarium from 400 litres, You can upgrade without worry 6 discus. Technically, you could put more, but this will lead to more maintenance. At the level of the water mainly change. (More frequent)
Because we must not forget that your discus will grow!
I own a juwel 450 with 2 Discus to about 10 cm, of cardinalis 4 lemon Tetra 3 Pink Tetra and 3 or 4 tile cleaners.
I have a lot of blue or green algae very slimy and feeling bad.
I listened to the advice of my seller and I did everything, changed my lighting tubes, makes water changes weekly , developed products for algae… Done nothing and then I turned off my tray. Then the, more algae but 8 days after voila revenues. I have the c02, all my settings are good, I know more what to then do you think that I have to remove all plants, co2 and turn off the light?
Thank you for your hint. I would much like a my discus, they eat in my hand and I do not want to lose them. Otherwise, I think I'll stop because completely demoralized. My bin has 1 year, the water is very clean, in fact I thought I had
problems with fish… and not me it is plants.
Thanks to help me
I have a tray of 350 the juwel mark litres, with 3 Discus including a couple.
In 6 months a two has had white spots and worms. I have dealt with as it should. They are doing better!
My question: Can they change partners? Because I know too if it helps him move or if the attack!
A discus 7/8 cm, and the couple 10/12 cm (I believe).
Thanks in advance!
Yes, the discus can change partners… It is by changing the partners to make a work of selection on breeding lines.
In tray set, a couple that is chosen will tend to remain however quite faithful.
I draw your attention to the number of discus that you hold in this aquarium. Do not hesitate to increase the number of discus to create a small group. Could avoid you some disappointments. (Behavioural problems, aggression etc.…)
Of course by performing necessary maintenance in parallel. (Changes of water etc.…)
Thanks much for your reply, However I also have other fish such as cardinalis, gouramis black widows, ECT…,Ofcourse not by overpopulation, so I know if l a discus adding more risk may be to make too?
I would withdraw the gouramis, which can exceed 10cm to have room for the discus.
Maintain a discus Group also means to be assiduous in maintenance. The volume of the tray allows.
Do well the point on all of your population and if possible, consider making a new fish quarantine!
I come to you because I owned a 360l aquarium (120x 50 x 60) I would like to populate in discus. Could you tell me if this is feasible in this volume as well as the ideal coexistence. I filter on peat which allows me to have a ph has 6.7
Thanks for your advice
The volume you have raised should be no problem for the discus. Remember to put them in a group.
For the cohabitation, you have the choice… avoid too big fish, too much stirring or don't have the same needs quality and water temperature as the discus. You can put the Characidae, with corydoras SP.. and other "fish suckers".
I advise you to place the "co-tenants" first and wait 1 months after the impoundment of the last introduced.
Then, place your discus group.
I draw your attention to the quality of your water. Do not just rely on the pH of the water to infer its adequacy with the maintenance of the discus…
Check your hardness KH and GH as explained in the article above.
In the "Novice" I invite you to read the articles dedicated to understanding water parameters.
I just redo my bin of 480 Litres,
I have my 10 red nose 20 cardinalis, I had a couple of Ansistrus that I keep and I put 6 discus with.
I have artificial plants as well as a root.
Tempaerature esu 28
KH 10 next to
Meals of the discus : flakes, of mosquito larvae, Artemia and discus foods.
What think you?
Discus developed in the sandbox yesterday morning and they are not the timid
The description you made your aquarium seems consistent.
I imagine that the choice of plastic plants is a matter of practice(?). Otherwise do not hesitate to put some live.
I ferrais just watch out for the water quality which under the KH value of 10 is too high for my taste.
As I explained in the article above, opt for a KH between 2 and 4 little loan. Do not forget that the discus are physiologically adapted to low mineralized waters fish.
The pleasure of you re-read on the blog Fanatik-Discus!
Discus I bought were in water a pet with an a7.5 PH and KH same as with us.
AND yes it is a practical issue plastic plants which are more easy to maintain.
The discus were into their store tray (126 litres) for a month and a half and they are doing well in good tray.
And great site for beginners in discus
Thanks Christelle, 🙂
Still follow your fish. Some strains can actually evolve in more calcareous waters thanks to the work of selection of some breeders.
But… medium/long term, There is much less concern with more freshwater. (less limestone)
If you encounter a few small health concerns, long service life not as it should be etc.… Think about your water quality.
I just discovered your blog that brought me a lot of responses already… However I have questions and a question ask you.
I bought there 3 years old, 9 Discus all small, about 3 cm. Today only still me have that 5. I have 2 pairs (me have already made eggs…no further action).
I do not understand why both of them are 11 cm and the 3 others are small approximately 7 / 8cm… Since I bought them the same size.
My question is this: Can I add 4 or 5 other discus? and what size should I choose so that they adapt well to the existing group?
Grow from small discus is not always easy when one starts… I think that the best remains to get much larger than discus 3 cm.
A 3 years your discus should make more of 11 cm.
Differences in sizes can have several origins… Aquarium maintenance, difference of varieties (Some are more timid and competes with other more robust), sex difference, the genetic aspect (You still have about 25% fish growing up fast, 50% medium and 25% Slow down), How to feed (the vending machines for example promote growth differentials, the dominant eating first and more large rations) etc etc etc.….
Brief on the subject is vast!
I did not have enough information to advise you. Before adding new discus, check your water parameters, the size of the aquarium allows it and its filtration equipment. The best is to practice a quarantine for new discus. (Anyway it is still highly recommended…)
Buy fish of the same size as those that you already have or failing to grow them from the time it takes.
Hoping you answer your questions! 🙂
Welcome Fanatik-Discus! 😉
here I got into an aquarium discus, 3 pigeon individuals, the aquarium 150 l, appropriate filter, maintained temperature has 28,5 then up to 29.6. Size of about inhabitants 12 cm, water 2/3 osmosis and 1/3 tap.
The balance is good, you will tell me that the aquarium is too small; I know, but it is pending a 250 l, for the next month already put in water, no other inhabitants and plants, just a rock in resin to make a hiding place.
Already 2 my babies come together and push the other, I put no other fish in my bin of 250 litres except may be of cardinalis, but to see…
My question is: I have guppies in shambles that breed much too if I take FRY and data to the discus is a good solution as food?
Yes I know it's cruel but in the wild fish do not arise to kinds of questions lol
After if I put a 4th Blue Diamond discus, could it be torque between a pigeon and a diamond formation?
If individuals are of course opposite sex? I should mention that on another forum a guy told: "ben has less that they are gay", but many forums serving has nothing on the Web, Here I saw things useful and serious, I await your comments and solutions,
Thank you for advance.
As soon as you can, hold your discus group. This is important. Even though the aquarium is "small.", You can compensate by good filtration and good changes of water.
For the guppy, I would avoid for not taking any risk of transmission of diseases…
The discus of different varieties may very well mate! but I recommend this crossing which will not really give beautiful small (If you wish to make a reproduction)
The forums are important places of Exchange, may be you have not found one that suits you… 😉
Go take a look at the links of Fanatik-Discus, may be you will find your happiness!
I went to buy me an aquarium and the seller told me that in a tank of 110 litres I could put a few discus … But reading the comments here I feel to have been misinformed ! Do you think it would be possible to buy me 3 or 4 discus with an aquarium of this size ???
Thank you !
Yes… you find the answer…
If you aim the maintenance, you will have the ideal conditions for discus.
You can raise a discus in modest volumes… but in bare aquarium, with good frequent changes of water, and with small fish…
The classic maintenance for, I do recommend it not.
We are setting up an aquarium and are in the phase of 'launch' of 3 weeks with 21 cardinalis. We already had the white spot disease ; did the treatment for three days and everything is back to normal despite 7 death…
So by security we extend the period of 'launch' of the aquarium of 15 extra days.
We are planning to bring 100 cardinalis and 6 discus (1 brilliant turquoise, 1 Pigeon blood red, 1 turquoise solid, 1 pigeon blood, 1 stendker Tefé, and 1 cobalt in a panoramic of juwel 350 l = this is a good plan?
We would like to take the + or – small size (those between 23 and 29 euros) to have the pleasure to see them grow 😉
And finally a layer of fertilizer recommended by our seller and a gravel thickness from 5 to 6 cm ; our plants are regularly uprooting = what to do to prevent it? Thank you for your reply,
When you say "Phase three weeks with cardinalis" : At what point did you put these fish in the aquarium?
I guess that you put these fish after the aquarium has worked 3 weeks (?)
For the stand, I think that 100 cardinalis with 6 Discus in an aquarium of 350 litres, It is a little too…
About 30 would be sufficient.
Caution do not over populate your aquarium, your original filter could be exceeded when your discus expect adult size. (The discus pollute much)
For plants, It depends on the species. But there are on the market 2 types of products that might help you.
1) Fasteners such as "plantis" of the brand JBL
2) Seachem brand glue (less widespread) that lets you paste plants to all media (including sand)
I have a tray of 150 litres with three discus inside … Therefore 50 litres per discus as it was recommended to me. I have introduced a third discus a few days ago but one of the two first persecutes it constantly and prevents it from eating! What should I do ?? I am really worried about my new discus!
Thanks in advance !
You have indeed the reasons to worry…
Indeed it takes place for each discus… but do not forget to keep group!
3 discus, It is too little… and your too small to accommodate tray 6 adults…
For small sizes fish, It is possible… and yet not on the long term.
I think you need to make a choice, and invest in a bigger tank to keep your discus group as I explained in the article above.
(Pending, try to separate the persecuted with wire mesh; This can work)
Thanks for the advice!
I have 14 years old, I love fish. I bought a small discus to put it on a 60 litres. It is equipped with a pump Eheim Ecco pro. However I noticed that my discus was weird, It was not swimming many. So I put a small group of neon (10) and since my discus is better.
Have I done well ?
Good evening Jean Baptiste,
It is always a pleasure for me to see young people interested in the Aquarium and particularly in the discus.
... So… To return to your question, I am tempted to answer you "yes" you have done well since your discus is better.
On the other hand, on the long term, This maintenance is not viable… As I explained above in section, discus require to be kept in a group, not alone (Except in special cases) Gold in a small tray, This will not be…
Maintained only the discus becomes fearful and stressed.
For the neon lights (Paracheirodon Innesi I imagine?), to know that they did not appreciate high temperatures that loves the discus (28/30 degrees Celsius).
Neon "innesi" are to maintain in waters 'fresh '..
Neon cardinalis (Paracheirodon axelrodi) better supports higher temperatures.
Hoping you ISA pleasure to traverse Fanatik-Discus!
Good evening, here with my mate we have a 350L aquarium.
We would like to adapt it for the discus.
We would therefore like to information with regard to lighting ? but also we know that the discus appreciate plants to hide etc. but apparently the plants and the discus do not have the same needs. So what to do ? some real plants or fakes ?
What background for our aquarium ?
Then here we have tap water but currently the ph is 7 and no nitrates or nitrites. Should we have the water in the aquarium ? or make a mixture of 2 ?
Invest in an osmosis ?
Do we need a co2 device ? If not too planted tank ?
Many issues that sometimes remain unanswered.
Thank you for your valuable answers we prefer démarres good foundation directly 😉
Good evening Marjolaine,
Indeed, the plants balance / discus is often difficult to obtain. In the light, The discus dislike indeed too strong lights.
If your lighting is a bit much, you need to reduce it by a good vegetation cover.
For the substrate, a classical composition should be. At Dennerle, I love the nutrient substrate Dennerle (Deponit Mix) covered with gravel of the same brand. (Relatively natural color, polished edges, adequate particle size)
Need to choose plant species that tolerate high temperatures (at least 28 degrees). For this I invite you to browse this kind of site with a good database: http://dennerle.eu/fr/index.php?option=com_pflanzendatenbank&Itemid=211
Remember one thing: The aquarium must be functional… In order to facilitate the regular maintenance that will ask the discus.
For water quality, check your KH as I explained on the page Facebook of Fanatik-Discus. It's case by case… and watch you tap water which may contain phosphates, silicates etc…
For CO2, my opinion is that this: The use of CO2 is good for plants. The discus appreciate for their well oxygenated waters… and if you use CO2, I advise you in a discus sandbox to you at a CO2 concentration below 20 mg/L. (10 mg/L seems to me be a security)
Many people broadcast CO2 in a discus crisper to lower their pH… If you stream CO2, It must be to promote the growth of the plants and not to lower your pH.
If the goal is to lower the pH, There are other means in line with the needs of the discus.
I invite you to explore the solution "Liquid CO2" as the "Carbo Booster" that gives very good results.
Hoping you answer your questions!
Good readings on Fanatik-Discus
I have taken note of your recommendations.
I have a tray of 400 well-planted litres I downgraded my diffusion of co2 has 10 mg per litre for my plants. My aquarium released just break-in cycle I intend to put 20 cardinalis, 3 corydoras, 10 red nose, and 5 or 6 discus.
Think you the people I want to place ?
I have a small question to acclimation: After a drive of an hour's drive how properly acclimate discus before releasing them into the tray because I did not quarantine tank ?
Thanks for your advice
I just discovered your site, That's great!
Me, I had a few two months ago large discus in tip-top shape but one of them spends his time to gently tease that is slightly smaller. they have an appetite for ogre but nothing to do, Although they have been sold for a couple, There is no sign of reproduction, or even of flirting even though they are still together. So I decided to buy three other smaller (seen the price…). If you were in my place, You élèveriez the three new with big in an aquarium of 540 litres or you just grow the three (half smaller) in an another aquarium and put them together once a more respectable size?
What would you advise me.
For your population, I would put 'small' fish before the discus; Hold on 1 months after the introduction of the 'small' last fish.
So, You can watch those above and check that all is well before placing your discus group.
I increase the number of corydoras who prefer to live in the bench. Why not ten?
Place your cardinalis, red nose, corydoras first pending a month will act as a "quarantine." (Failing). Take your fish in a good shop, left to pay a bit more expensive.
For acclimatization; There are several "methods".…
I have not yet write about, I invite you to browse this section:
One important thing, well check your water parameters before buying your fish (Tests to drops) and check the temperature before "releasing" your fish in their new aquarium.
I wish you success with your fish! And pleased to count you among the readers of the site! 😉
Thank you for your compliments! 🙂 and happy to know that you appreciate browse Fanatik-Discus!
Your case is not very clear… It is best to place all of size just discus similar loan.
And of course in bench as explained in the article. Your new three discus do not form a group enough to be placed separately in another aquarium…
The risk is that your three fish are fighting continuously… It's case by case knowing that the probability of failure is strong enough.
It is strongly recommended to make anyway a quarantine.
Why not review your project upward and buy 5 new small? You do grow apart and once largest (It will go fairly quickly) you put them in your aquarium.
Seven discus in your 540 liters is not shocking. Need to do interviews and be regular.
I have a 240 equipped l of a co2 with plants with 20 cardinalis, 15 red nose, 4 corydoras, 2 ancistrus and 4 discus. Everyone is doing well in the aquarium since 4 weeks. Not nitrite and pH control to 6.70, but my fish supplier tells me not to do water changes for now, see wait 2 month is this normal? As for the discus it is important to make water changes.
And FYI I put more other fish I stop the.
can we put and discus with scalars?
Yes, You are right, this Council is strange. May be you had a problem of understanding with your provider (?)
It is advisable to do water changes at least once a week. For this I would recommend using a "sand bell" and check your nitrate levels once a month just ready. (To ensure that this rate is sufficient)
Attention to your CO2 content. With such pH and without another source of element acidifier that adding CO2 (Peat, extracts etc.) must be your KH around 2 do not have too high CO2 content. (Not more than 10 mg/L)
I advise you to check your KH and verify your content in mg/L of CO2 "manually" with an array of relationship pH/KH. (Just for verification)
If your KH is around 2, attention do not go lower…
Good evening Jean-Ives,
Technically Yes, but it is necessary in my opinion have an aquarium of volume…
Two species requiring live in bench, I let you imagine the place that this requires.
It should be noted that the scalars are also more swift to feed and this usually creates a non-negligible with the discus competition for food.
For my part, less than 600 litres, I think that coexistence can be classified 'A risk '.…
One of my discus breathe too fast nitrite 0 pH 6.70 controlled by a jbl with probe kit but as I told you my supplier tells me not to water change during 2 months after start of the aquarium I've tested the kh I 13 drops on a jbl Tester what do I do??
I think a water change
What do you think?
I you respond directly by email. I think that your concern is set.
The diffusion of CO2 is always under control. Bring you an array of KH/pH relationship like the one above :
I advise you not to exceed 10 mg/L for a crisper discus. Here, with a pH of 6.7 and a 13 KH… you have approximately 82 mg/L of CO2; What is far too…
Plants will love… the discus much less.
After 15 years without aquarium, I would like to redo the leap !
But this is, I have a question :
The shape of the aquarium is important or only the volume is important ?
Today we found interesting designs for bins but are they suitable for maintenance of Discus ?
I think that we should even leave a good space of swimming fish with a good facade. For example avoid aquariums of type "column.…
Prefer everything even the practicality, because it is often on this test that 'design' aquariums problem…
good evening always interesting to have an answer to the many questions that we ask ourselves what in it starts in the breeding of discus
Question: I just put in road (3 weeks) an aquarium of 360 litres, My PH rest has 7,2 and conductivity in 190ppm; NO2 0,02
How to downgrade the ph?
How many discus buy and what variety will be the most robust? pigeon blood ,Marlboro, turquoise??
Thanks for your reply jf
Hello JF. C,
It is normal that your pH stabilizes around 7 If your water is weakly mineralized.
With fish it is expected to decline somewhat.
Check your KH, one influencing the pH. I refer you to this article for a better understanding: http://www.fanatik-discus.com/2010/02/comprendre-les-principaux-parametres-deau/
Otherwise to lower the pH you can use good brand peat (stable quality) but it will ambrer your water.
There are also a multitude of products fruits of Alder or oak to the acidifying powers leaves extract (JBL, Amtra…) Use with caution.
For varieties of discus, the three you mention are resistant. I think the important thing is to get your fish from a trusted dealer. Avoid buying at various locations over a short period of time.
To begin, the best remains to my sense to buy your group of fish in the same place.
Happy discus keeping!
I just discovered your site and I find it really great.
If I would write to you is that I am facing a problem with my Discus.
I have an aquarium of 350 litres planted large Echinodorus in which coexist 12 red nose, 7 Corydoras, 2 Farlowella, 5 Maronii and 2 Discus to about 15 cm and ages of almost 2 years old.
At the beginning there 6 Discus but one of my 2 "survivors" so persecuted others that some are dead and I had to eventually separate me from the last. There is only with those with whom it is that it agreement well. I even thought that it was a couple but since most of 6 months they are more than 2 not a firstfruits of parade bridal or other.
The problem, Since a big week, is that they became very very frightened at the point of bumping into the glass or even try to jump over. They are in great shape and eat very well, but flee the tray to the slightest movement, thing they did ever before.
There has been no change in the tray nor addition of fish.
I do a water change of 100 L all the 10 days (2 third of osmosis water / 1 others from tap water), the aquarium is filtered by 2 filters Jbl Cristal profi (900LH and 1500Lh) and tray settings are: NO2 = 0 / NO3 = 30mg / Po4 = 0.4 mg / GH = 6 / KH = 3 / PH = 7.
Have you a solution to this problem knowing that add other Discus scares me because of aggressive behavior from my Discus.?.
Good evening Jean Paul,
Pleased to know that you enjoy the site. 🙂
All changes of behavior in animals must draw our attention.
Should be a bit further your investigation further as regards the parameters of water. For example check your ammonia content, the temperature, or your CO2 content if you stream, Sometimes a low oxygen can cause this kind of behavior.
In brief, recheck all the elements that form the environment of fish.
Make sure you not install your value for nitrates through good regular water changes.
If the two discus agree well like this, Why not let them so?
If you add the discus, I think that it would be preferable to assign your maroni to give them more room.
If you reshape a group, make sure beforehand that "all lights are green.… and preferably choose fish of the same size.
The maintenance must be more supported because greater pollution.
The discus were sometimes disturbing behaviors… The "sex ratio" of your old population of discus was maybe not ideal (?) too many males in the same group (?)
Hoping have helped you a little…
I change my aquarium, I spend 200 litres to 360 litres, I have 2 small scalars, 4 corydoras, 2 glass washers, 11 small Paracheirodon Innesi and 2 discus 6 cm to 7 cm, with a good atmosphere in one of 200 litres.
However, in my new aquarium of 360 litres with filter Eheim I would put the same fish knowing I'll wait 3 weeks after the implementation of water and make my settings to water to 6 Discus from 4 cm to 5cm (Since I have one available).
My 1st question was whether the fish population was correct knowing that when the discus will grow and when couples go to form.
I would like to divide my aquarium in 2 Parties with a glass in the centre (style battery) to isolate 2 couples to try a reproduction.
My second question: Is it possible? and how to make a good filtration with a tray of 200 divided into l 2, My third; What type of glue do you recommend to paste this glass in the Middle? and my last question is what my project can lead??????
Thanks for the replies,
There are two three things that could be improved.
Avoid placing the Paracheirodon innesi with of discus because they enjoy little high temperatures that are fond of the discus. Prefer their of the axelrodi.
The 'big' fish population will be my way too high… If I have understood correctly 8 small discus + 2 scalars.
In total, on such a volume, 6 fish up seems be more reasonable… Avoid associate scalars.
If the objective is to engage in reproductive, get a little more later a 100 liters aquarium. It will allow you to begin to raise your kids. The 200 litres you will also… the small discus requesting space…
Divide your aquarium in two is possible, but the best is in my opinion you get an extra aquarium. You'll need!
Suddenly this week I had a good opportunity; I got an aquarium of 450 litres with internal filtration. In total I have 9 small discus, 2 small scalars, 4 corydoras, 1 glass washer (plecostomus), and the 11 small Paracheirodon innesi I'll sell to buy instead of the axelrodi as you had told me.
What I do is to sell the 200 litres, the 360 litres and later buy 2 Aquariums of 100 litres. One for the reproduction and one for breeding.
For the scalar I find they agree but when it will grow up I think it is at this point that the change in behaviour will be and I would suggest then has someone. Thanks for the advice I will keep informed you the development.
Your project is structured, Bravo. 🙂
If I can afford, keep at least a large aquarium. You need to grow your discus FRY.
Two aquariums of 100 litres is not enough.
Have fun with your fish!
I have a tray of 1500 litres in which I put two years ago 6 discus (2 angel dark, 2 cobalt, 2 Diamond blue) with cardinalis, red nose, 4 small wild scalars. They were quite small (purchased from an individual who stands in) with the exception of the two blue Diamond which remain small; others were magnified and are to 10/12 cm. I had the opportunity to acquire 3 new 'melon '. 2 of 10/12 cm and 1 of 12/14 cm. they are well integrated not Brawl, but I think that they have not eaten since 2 months !! (There are 1 of 3 that remains a long time hidden but that comes out from time to time). Even when the food their passes before the nose they look. I fed in multiple locations simultaneously (I have tried all types of food) An idea ??? Be it feed without lighting ???
I am considering installing a couple of discus in a naked of VAT 450 litres, What do you use filter type pothos plants?
I have a tray of 350 litres and 5 Discus between 10 and 12 cm. For several months a first couple is formed, then a second… These two couples do not stop laying eggs in two places in the aquarium (well-planted, with a big central root on which reproduces the couple the most dominant). My discus are all in perfect health but I am concerned that for several weeks the less dominant couple tends to less food and prefer to stay near his ponte, on the back of the tray. I decreased the water temperature to 27 degrees celcius, My goal is not the reproduction but it didn't air discourage lay (unsuccessfully once the larvae are winning they eat) Repeat…Is there a solution so that they stop laying eggs and therefore each protect a territory at the expense of their power ?
I thank you in advance,
Sorry I went next to this message (Just like those of M.Desbois and Rachel)… I apologize.
In your case, an e thing to do: monitor your water parameters. Get the facts on the aquarium in its entirety.
If everything is ok at this level, need to explore the parasitic track…
I met there shortly a breeder who used these plants. Unfortunately there was no controls on the impact of those ci on its aquariums…
Anyway, This can only participate in the cleansing water!
Indeed… When they are decided… they do not stop!
Home, to limit this phenomenon, I siphoning eggs the same day.
To the reproduction, Anyway, it is better to isolate specific Aquarium.
I make the same mistake as you starting with 3 Discus in a 190 l and I went to a 350 litres. I have 5 discus (soon 6) and I see that the difference is obvious! Discus group much better adapt to its environment; There are much less stressed, detendus ! It is nikel, It's nice to see them like that.
Hello all I have a 400 litres I intends to acquire 4 Discus I give you my settings:
It is planted, temperature 29 degrees celcius I would like your opinion
Thank you for your comment.
And Yes, the discus like to live in a group!!! 🙂
Have fun with your discus.
As I explained in the article above, I a little way your hardness,GH and also the CO2 content.
You can use for your plants a source of additional carbon such as the "Carbo Elixir" of Dennerle. (By reducing the diffusion of CO2 gas)
I have a juwel aquarium 180 litres of cardinalis and the red nose and 2 discus. But there is a discus that prevents another move in the aquarium as soon as the discus is subject (It shows strong stripes) the other dark upon him and submitted fish starts behind the strain. How to make because he dare not get out what is a problem…
This is pretty typical of the discus not living in Group…
As I explained in the article, the discus were a gregarious lifestyle. The Group should be composed of 5 / 6 Discus minimum annihilate too aggressive behaviors.
This should also be a somewhat larger aquarium…
Thanks but I have my aquarium that since 2 years old… So I have no intention to change it now.
But thanks anyway.
I currently own an aquarium of 540l gross with inside of the cardinalis, red nose, corydoras (a dozen of each) and an ancistrus.
I would like to add a few discus and I have a few questions about maintenance.
I read on a site of a German breeder that you can change 30% the water of the aquarium by him emptying and filling it directly with the tap water using a shower to remove chlorine.
Is what this method is possible with high discus in the tap water because my water to a kh of 8, a GH of 10, a slightly higher ph 7.5. There is no nitrate or phosphate.
Is that the temperature change won't be a problem?
Another question, is it possible to put 6 discus about 8 cm in my tray feeding 3 times a day and doing a water change of 30% by week? (knowing that I have currently little nitrate and phosphate in my sandbox.
Thanks for your help.
With regard to the changes of water… I advise you fully prepared before. Completing so directly to the hand shower can be hazardous…
This, I you return to this article which talks about the subject: http://www.fanatik-discus.com/2009/09/les-besoins-en-eau-des-discus/
Discus ' high in tap water ' doesn't mean much because the quality of tap water vary from one region to the other, see even one neighborhood to the next…
You will find in the article above the parameters of water that I recommend.
For the choice of the discus, If you can take a little bigger. (about ten centimeters)
The impact of this population on your water quality, you need to perform regular tests of water and adjust your water changes based on the results.
Normally, 30% a week should be fine.
Also a lot depends on your "food strategy"., If you use little digestible foods, He will have to make more changes of water… (Because it creates more pollution)
Success with your discus!
I come to change Lac I passes 240 l to 400l of eheim brand I got the maximum of the former water and media and I put the rest of the new media and the remaining water in water osmosis graduated a week is full of green filamentous algae is this normal? and my fish supplier told me to wait two weeks before my discus knowing that I would have 7 Discus I'll suddenly you think ??
Thank you for your answer
I am of the same opinion, patience is a very good virtue…
I don't know what range of Eheim aquarium you have, but some lighting is "powerful enough".. Maybe you light a little too long?
Otherwise, a thorough study is requested by this kind of worries… location of IBC, water quality (Nitrates, phosphates, silicates…) type and duration of lighting, quantity of plants etc etc.…
How often should I feed my 8cm discus?
This will depend on the quality and type of food. At this size, in breeding about aquarium 3 to 4 twice a day. Consider helping you as an RGL food ATM.
Attention in the community aquarium, This leads to significant pollution which will require water as a result changes.
Best will be food and better will be the assimilation of food, reducing l induced pollution.
A bit of reading on the subject:
So I'm 19 years and I just bought my first aquarium juwel rio 450 litres with in mind to put a group of 5 or 6 discus. My sandbox is not bad planted with plants that take 28 , 30 degrees celcius , I have a kit CO2 of JBL brand with the electronic system that I'm running 8 hours per day at the same time as my lighting.
My question is what size should I take my discus knowing I want to put them directly in their final container (not the place of a second bin for the magnification)
My tank has been running for 3 weeks I just put 11 corydoras for now everything's fine by some algae thank you for your answer !
In this case you should not take them too small. Place your small fish (Corydoras etc…) and wait 1 months after the introduction of the latest "small fish" who will go with your discus. Then if all goes well and that there is no health problem detected, Enter your discus group.
At least a dozen centimeters… If the budget allows, even a little larger.
Attention to Co2… To control with a permanent test. (At least): http://dennerle.com/fr/produits/aquariophilie/la-fumure-au-co2/accessoires/generalement/test-longue-duree-co2-correct-ph
Thanks for the reply.
I introduced at the moment a group of 4 Discus between 13 and 17 cm; Two pigeon blood and marlboro and a blood diamond… Small problem I 4 males so his fight in my sandbox is the addition of 2 females could solve this little problem ?
PS: Is it possible to post a photo ? If yes how ?
Thanks and by the way happy holidays !
Yes 4 Discus is a fair bit… And I imagine the result if it comes to males… The problem is often in the choice of fish or looking for animals that have 'presence' of the 'presence '.… and sometimes we also select gender…
It would expand the Group, hoping it's enough… and also be sure of gender… But there is no guarantee of result…
For photos and other types of exchanges "more detailed" meeting on the facebook page of Fanatik-discus: https://www.facebook.com/Fanatik.Discus/
Become a fan and go!
I have 7 Discus in a 450 l since 1 year. One of the discus began to have a white spot.
I changed it to aquarium and treated. OK… Two others have tasks (and no points) Brunettes and non-white on the caudal fin…
I've changed also Aquarium but what treatment for them please?
I just bought a new aquarium following a great offer.
The aquarium is 240 litres but the problem and that is there an adult discus… He was already with the person who me the sold. I know that the discus don't normally live alone, nor in 250 litres… Finally it's limit so I wanted to know if it was better to take others; How many and what size?
Thanks in advance...
PS: This isn't my first aquarium and the discus lived as a couple,
Thank you for your great site you're the best
Difficult to make a diagnosis without photos/videos as well as many other information…
I advise you to visit the forum "Discus simply ' which has a section"infirmary ".. Sign up for, a small presentation and you can present your problem in detail.
You will see that there is a very well done detailed to fill.
Hoping that everything goes well for your discus!
Yes 240 liters is just… For a couple who get along well why not.
There is not a lot of solutions… Why not try to reform a couple hoping that they get along well…
If not to reform a youth group with little difference in size with the former with aim to pass on a larger aquarium…
Thank you Jan for taking my call.
The advantage and that there are no other big fish in the aquarium. I don't yet have the budget to purchase discus to the same size and I have a great offer on a 180 L naked tank.
Would be interesting to take to grow youth…?
My last question is : a group of how much would be the ideal?
Thank you, It's a very good site.
As I explained in this article, should be at least 5/6 only discus.
The 180 liters is not very large but this may very well agree to grow young discus.
This provided you have a good filtration and to be equipped to be able easily to big regular water changes.
I have a bin of 300 The, I did the acquisition of 5 discus, 2 Red melon + 3 Red spotted.
Despite the settings below, the discus refuse to feed.
– PH = 7.7
– NO2 = 0.01 mg/l
– Nh3 = 0
– PO4 = between 1 and 2
– NO3 = 20
– KH = 5 °
– GH = 12
You think with a too high GH, could stress the discus ?
I don't see anything else.
If you can help me.
It is true that there is nothing shocking… Try to somewhat lower GH and this will at the same time a little lower your nitrate (Which is not catastrophic).
When buying new discus, This can put a bit of time to eat. Contact your dealer to find out what they ate.
In a first time the important is that your fish eat. It doesn't matter what. Then offer their several "mini meals" per day (5 or 6) by changing each time the type of food: discus food, granulates, freeze-dried food, frozen brine, Artemia live etc.
The goal is to cause the interest, and it will come. Of course, if the food is not consumed, He will have to siphon it to avoid polluting your aquarium.
If the fish are young, There they eat enough quickly.
I have a recurring problem, My discus do not grow… I have since 18 months in an aquarium 130 gallons.. they are fed beef heart, bloodworms, glitter, granulates.
PH 6.7 KH 4 the aquarium consists of a ph controller, a sterilizer, a co2 regulator.
The water is changed every week 15%.
I add the aquadure to the water change.
There are a lot of things to study…
The best would be to go through the Facebook page, you might as well send photos etc…
A quick question is that an aquarium of 100 x 40 x 60 cm may be enough for a couple of discus ? Or even the maintenance of one couple is not recommended over the long term ? In this case no possibility with this volume ?
I'd like a little hardware advice. I want to start an aquarium dedicated to the discus but I missed my purchase of equipment..
I hesitate between a juwel 450 LED or a one-piece style aquarium.
I intend to strengthen the filtration by an external filtration is jbl… either eheim.
What do you recommend as hardware? precision I chose dimensions of 150cm / 60 h / 50l.. either 450 gross l..
Yes it is possible. It all depends on how the couple will be… It's case by case.
I'm not sure I understand what you call a "one-piece" aquarium.
Juwel aquariums are part of the most sold in Europe, for me it is a good quality-price ratio. You can find better, but it will be more expensive. At MP aquariums of Eheim there are beautiful models with some extra-white glass. (Very transparent)
There is also a range of aquariums 'reefer' suitable for the realization of a discus aquarium in Red Sea (But without cover). Very well done, with filtration under aquarium and extra white glass. Also more expensive here…. But of very good quality and convertible version Navy very easily.
For filtration… Eheim eyes closed… A reference in the field. JBL external filtration is a good quality/price ratio. But the Eheim technology is superior in many aspects that the "general public" can not imagine…
To return to Juwel, the LED version is recent, to date no decline in the quality of lighting. But this brand enjoyed a good service if necessary.
Hope this is helpful
thank you for the feedback..
In Belgium, we call "monoblock", an aquarium with internal settling on the side or back of the aquarium…
Thank you, I still learned something today 😉
Great too, can be a little less aesthetic but effective.
I have a question: I'll buy a Aquatlantis Aquarium Fusion tray 150x50x70cm LED lighting. I think the tray is but I'm a bit more pensive on LED. What think you?
Thanks in advance, EASY LED lighting system.
The "sets Aquarium-furniture ' brand Aquatlantis usually have a nice design. Their weak points will actually be its electric organs… Its launch on the market there were several defects sealing on the ramps LED but who have I think been rectified since. These LEDs are not at the level of the best in the market but this should agree to make a little planted discus aquarium. At MP aquariums you also have very beautiful models in white glass of very good quality; but can be a little more expensive (?)…
There is very little time that I'm interested in the discus and I always wanted to discus… Except that I'm not very well.
I made the purchase of a 250 liters and I'd like to have at least two discus - what is this is possible? What should I do as launch?
Welcome to the club! 😉
I suggest you read the article on which you just leave a comment, as well as the 'Novice' of the site tab. You will find all the information necessary to start well.
Way of life, type d’aquarium, food, water etc..
I acquired a tray Eheim 400 with external filtration of the same brand.
After two weeks my settings are:
28 degrees celcius
WITH KUPFER: 0,1
to improve them, do you think that the addition of 1/3 of RO water will improve?
How many liters?
Can you tell me more about RO water and the amount to lower my settings?
I look forward to reading from you.
Hello Franck, and welcome to the site Fanatik-Discus.
Yes, adding 1/3 of osmosed water (if the osmosis works well) will lower these parameters about 30%. You should get a slightly higher KH 4.
The RO water is water in which 90-95% elements were filtered so removed. We then obtain a substantially pure water.
To this you add a lot of elements by mixing with a mineral water (For example tap water) or commercial minerals.
If your tap water is of good quality (No problematic pollutants), you can very well adjust your mineral content through a mixture with osmosis water.
In your case, and if your tap water is to the values measured in your aquarium above; then a mixture 2/3 tap – 1/3 RO water must be correct.
I have just one question. I make long discus and I'd never used for breeding. My discus moving in 1 tray 1000l, they are ten. My pH is 6 with a left-to Max 6.20, RI 7, KH 1,5, NO2 0, no3 0, do 0,2 mg. What angers some is the PO4 3- to 1,8 mg / l and conductivity is 150 micro-Siemens, temperature 30 degrees.
Change water daily (60 to 80 the automatic) with osmosed water filtered on a reserve tank with under "lavaplan", peat and mineral intake salts preis. However, I couple that has formed and that made me 3 bridges. The problem is that the male discus is interested in another female and cleans currently manifestly carrier for coupling to another female. But I thought the discus was faithful?
And Yes… our discus are also infidels! 🙂 I would say fortunately for us, because it would be much more complicated to make the selection.
For example, I rarely have problems to mate the fish I chose.
Despite all, it happens that some discus do not hear well and do not recur with the same partner. (What is sometimes annoying when you want to recover certain genetic characteristics)
I note, however that community tank, couples formed remain stable overall.
For your worries Phosphates, try the "Phosguard" of Seachem brand… I think that you will be happy… 😉
Thanks for your response. I tried to lower my phosphates with the "phos-out" without results. I will indeed try now 'phosgard '..
I am a beginner and I'd like to know how many discus, (It seems that should be 50 L by discus) can you put in a tray of 300 The. In your opinion, can I use it just to get my discus are learning to feed themselves well and a time that they have reached 10 12 cm, transfer to the community of Lac 450 The. With everything that can be read everywhere ….force we know more …
First, Welcome to Fanatik-discus hoping that you will enjoy your reading !
You can reassure you, the volume you have to maintain appropriate discus. The "rule of 50L per discus" is not bad in either. It provides a benchmark for beginners regarding classical maintenance of a population of adult discus (Like those mentioned in the article). This is provided to maintain the discus in group 5-6 minimum individuals.
Of course, breeders and amateurs climb this highest ratio since they compensate by higher volumes and larger water change frequency… Also, filtration is to be taken into account because often very effective home.
More discus are many better it happens… But for that it must monitor to maintain a good quality of water…
Reading your question, I imagine that plan you the purchase of small discus of 5/6 cm (?)… You can grow 6 small discus in bare aquarium of 100 litres in the maintenance that is inherent in the methods of magnification (supply frequency, change water, cleanliness etc…)
Or so get you a much broader group of small for your bin of 300 litres (In which you will later select your favorite). Or even if your filtration equipment allows, adjust the water level in your tank halfway (150 litres) What do you do to evolve with the growth of your discus.
for conclusion, in terms of space, an adult for discus 50 liter is good provided they are kept in group. This classic in maintenance conditions. By regularly monitoring your water parameters to adjust if need your routine maintenance (Change water, filter cleaning etc.…).
Feel free to aquire a "Oxydator" that will improve the environment of your discus releasing the precious oxygen.
Hoping to have answered your questions 😉
I thank you for all the valuable information it relieves me .
Sure there are the sizes 5 to 6 cm. As a beginner I made the mistake of buying into that 3 There are 1 months . There are in my 450 liters and I will put them with 4 Arriving in the new 300 litres.
The water parameters are pH: 7.5 – KH: 8 – GH: 10 – NO²: 0.01 – NO3: 1 – FE : 0.02 – TEMP: 28.7 (I think for the temperature increase gradually)
I get the new occupants today
Not easy when you start; always afraid to make mistakes…
I'm not disappointed to have discovered your great great site that gives me much information.
Thank you to you!
So here last Saturday I bought discus. All going well, and then this morning by turning on the light I see a discus not eating and behavior he had not the day before…
By observing the, it drops and he also made the surface… So I'm afraid it's dying…
Do you have the answer to its behavior ?
I'm sorry, but it is sorely lacking information to help you… When you confront this kind of worry; the first step is to test the parameters of your water.
I have a question: What are the living conditions of the discus in the wild?
They always have water around 29 30 degree celcius? Their habitat contains no plant and they coexist with any other fish? And since the discus is maintained and reproduced in mass what it makes it so demanding that it is always ?
Discus are naturally floor over large areas… To get a little more into account their habitats, I invite you to visit this article:
level temperature, the authors generally refer to temperatures at least 27 degrees celcius (or very close in most cases). But discus undergo seasonal variations due to the rainy season and dry season alternations… Nothing like our aquariums! The waters are very few minerals with relatively acidic pH.
For more details, il y a tome 1 de Heiko Bleher; although many details suffering controversy… One can get an idea of habitats. Usually made of branches-submerged trees or flooded forests. There are also some rocky areas in discus… Overall slightly trimmed aquatic plants.
I think that these regions are so large that it would be presumptuous to be too categorical in describing the habitats… I remember, for example, some rocky areas or sheltered filmed numerous discus…
The breeding discus finally "tolerant" in view of the statements made in its natural habitat ! (Conductivity average statement 8 to 30 micro siemens to pH 4,8 6… source Bleher 2006)
It is a fish that has seen years of evolution in freshwater habitat and acid… It is therefore quite normal that evolves better in these types of water…
The reverse can also check… a cichlid from Lake Malawi (rather well mineralized…lol) deemed rustic may be difficult in low-mineralized water and acid…
This is how… Imagine Ask an Eskimo if he tolerates her sunny living in Africa… 🙂
I have several small questions:
I have a tray that makes 800 L with Malawi cichlids and I want to stop… And want to spend the discus with other small fish tell me how I should do please?
Everything is on the site 🙂
Once you have placed your cichidés Malawi; Simply clean your aquarium and equipment. Then re-are cycling your tank at least 3 weeks with bacterial contribution.
Start with the implementation of small fish; Hold on 1 months after the last introduced before placing your group discus.
It will monitor some parameters of water; you will find the necessary explanations about it here:
I also invite you to read the articles of the category "novice"
Here I have managed to have young discus. they have 3 weeks, I wanted to know what anti-parasitic treatment was performed in a preventative and if necessary?
With a lot of delay… I am so right left that I can get through… Sorry!
According farming methods, it is not always necessary to perform an anti-parasite treatment…
By cons must watch worm infestations gills that can wreak havoc…
If necessary, a treatment may be considered at the first symptoms; making sure in advance that the fish environment was not the cause of problems.
Your site is great 🙂
I have a little question : I would like to get into a planted tank for discus : what floor you recommend me ? I have seen some technical floors lowering the pH of the water but that cost a fortune 🙂
thank you Julien! 😉
For soil, it is better to avoid technical soils with discus. If you want to make a well planted tank with priority given to the plant…OK. But for a discus tank, I recommend something more classic: reliable nutritious soil + gravel 2mm fairly consistent (about 3-4cm to prevent nutrient soil back)
To mark, Dennerle (Deponit Mix) guard my preference. Like their sands elsewhere; but those light colors.
to mark, all "+ gravel fertilizer" must do just loan the height of a bucket plants you buy in stores…
Take care… And good surfing Fanatik-Discus!!!
Feel free to subscribe to the newsletter and on Facebook… great things are coming…
I lose 1 Discus week but all my settings are good.
Ph 6 RI 6 th 4 No. 2 and No. 3 ok
I have a 1600 liter I 10 discus 12cm
Today more than 5…
No apparent signal and 1 hours after death into the tray
What to do?
In such cases there may be many causes…
However, to try to help you:
Sudden deaths should lead you to discussions related to poisoning (Water quality change, new plastics introduced into the water (Deco, pump, filter), use of aerosols in the room, use of flea / protection products in the room, CO2 incorrectly set, outdated water tests or poorly done not for identifying a concern, presence of ammonia etc etc.…) OR a problem of pathological nature. This inducing symptoms that should observe in order to interpret.
Despite the lack of information I have; I advise you to explore these two tracks…
Courage, You will find…
Hello and good year….and thank you for this forum….
Aquarist for about 25 years old….and having made different breed fish (bedotia, scalars, gourami)… I would like to try to breed discus….after death is my last giant scalar…. but it is reasonable and responsible in a tray 350 liters very planted? LED light with up and sunset.
My idea when I launched…
osmosis water with added Minerals
15 red nose about
…. and discus that I would like to buy small and grow.
I understand that yes it is possible on trade … but I often read "no" on other sites. What makes me hesitate because we are responsible for our fish.
What volume of minimum water change weekly? 35 liter is sufficient that?
How discus it is advisable to?… 5 discus seems to me much…. whether a group of 5 mini…
If I chose 4 cms…. how often would he feed them daily?
28 degrees in temperature enough ?
The LED lighting t he risk of being too powerful (perfect balance to date…. strong plant growth and no algae)… I would like not to change
A lot of questions… sorry….
Thank you for your answers!
Yes indeed! that's a lot of issues and questions!
To begin, my best wishes too for this year 2019.
You can very well maintain in discus 350 liters of water. By ferry planted as though it will require some "gymnastics" to settle this little world (animal and plant).
If you have an Instagram account, have a look in my account and you'll find a lovely planted tank that hosts discus… It will also I motivates me to write a story about this aquarium… ( ( https://www.instagram.com/fanatik.discus/ )
By cons fatten discus in such type of aquarium may be complicated… As small as you wish (4 cm) the ideal will be another tank single tank to make them grow.
In addition, discus this size in my opinion is to avoid to start… Or you turn to fish 8-10 cm you will feed less, and you will avoid the phase of the aquarium "special magnification".
You'll see them grow anyway… You choose… Also, to 4 cm… it is advisable to keep enough of.
Getting back on the planted tank + discus… You will plunge into a small plant study to select plants compatible with the requirements of discus: little CO2 (at least not too…) not too powerful light (the LED, there are on the market "to drink and eat"… all LEDs are created equal… far from there), a temperature around 28 Celsius and well-oxygenated water.
The "problem" of light intensity can be very well compensated by a canopy… with nearby low plants rather umbrophiles (or sciaphiles).
For oxygen… No choice, you would need a suitable size Oxydator. This one will achieve a CO2-O2 balance without stirring (therefore CO2 degassing). Christelle Kasselman in his book "aquarium plants" also explains the great.
Other solution, adding "liquid carbon" daily.
IMPORTANT: Anyway, CO2 is "harmful" and dangerous to use so badly proportioned…
For water changes, this will depend on the pollution generated. A small follow-up will give you the trend. but overall 30% Tray per week is an average in normal condition.
You can have 6 discus if you want, but it will be ready to ensure greater water volume change if necessary. Think sizing the filtration, its equipment type filter elements is also very important.
I think I made the round of questions…
For more information on your project, I suggest you do some research on the "law of the minimum" suitable for the plant; you will understand many things…
See you on Fanatik-discus, and feel free to subscribe to the newsletter to receive notifications of new posts!
Thank you for this forum that answers a lot of my questions.
I would like your opinion, I like the project to create a 450l tank for discus, corydoras, ancistrus and shrimp. I want it to self maximum.
I'm going on a custom tray for equipped overflow connected to the sewer, a dry column to pass my pipes. External pump and the heaters and probe for a CO2 system.
I have already experienced a tray discus but I ended up tying me to stress the important water change (view its location not suitable located in the room). I'll put it up on the counter and serve me below as maintenance closet. I thought my closet equipped with a reverse osmosis storage tank, in this tank introduce minerals, then with a metering pump return in taste tasted in the aquarium (1Once week 60l). It remains CO2 sytem equipped with a computer with remote sensor and solenoid valve for regulating the; The ferry will be moderately planted to avoid the constraints discus.
For filtration I thought equip two foam compartments, peats a compartment and the last compartment white granules for the maintenance of micro organisms (know more than the name).
For the lamp I hesitate I still have a T5 ramp 4 tubes but I still do not know how to fit in the tubes of colors or by changing the LED (but not really given level price).
I hesitate to acquire a UV lamp or to the neutralized water after RO just prior to salt intake or either connected on the inlet and outlet of the filtration but work only 1 x per week on a court deadline to remove algae that we tend to accumulate in these two pipes (I do not know if this will answer my expectation).
Finally I think introducing into the tray a Oxydator. If you could tell me what you think; I'm interested in your advice and if I forget accessories, please tell me.
Good evening Maxime,
Your project seems to me rather well built.
Having a "standalone" application aquarium able to rely on instruments, tools, quality materials. Despite this autonomy is relative; but I think I understand that you know the constraints of maintenance discus. These latter are the majority goshawks maintains the good water quality.
For example, a CO2 diffusion control probe is only useful if it is calibrated regularly. Otherwise, the risk would be to see this probe send wrong measurement results to "trip computer"… With consequent sent orders based on erroneous calculations.
Personally, I find that some items may be discussed:
-> The volume of water change will evolve in many settings: Fish Quantity, Pace and type of food (Causing more or less pollution by quality), type of plantation, filtration etc…
To be brief, if you have room in your cabinet, please see the greatest. It would be a shame to see your automation limited water changes because of too little preparation tank…
Also, I remind you that this water management will provide you did not perform a "siphoning" regular ground using a sand bell. (To remove non-sucked by the filter elements)
-> It The presence of CO2 diffusion you is necessary? Since you are planning a moderately planted tank. You do not itemize the type of plants you intend to introduce, but it is also possible that the retained species have not required "enormous"? For this, I invite you to visit Tropica sites and Dennerle. If you hold a moderate population + plants need low CO2… While the presence of a distribution may be questionable. (A check course)
-> The presence of peat in the filter does not seem necessary in your case. Remember good mechanical filtration before your visit to foam and bacterial support. The "cotton" is currently available as a small ball in BE is more powerful. (SERA Crystal clear professional).
Feel free to you to add a well-known across the Atlantic Media: The Purigen the brand Seachem.
-> To light, distribute brand tubes Dennerle. They have the support of many people I know… Whether level color rendering, lifetime and efficiency.
Distribution made with amazon day + special plant and if you have a free space then, one colored torcal.
Otherwise LED level, observe carefully the new range available recently from JBL… The possibilities are bluffing… And great price for the quality.
-> Filtration UV is useless to my senses in the objective and the planned use.
Wishing you a great success.
Feel free to subscribe to the newsletter! You will receive a mail for every new article / report published. 😉
(available on PC navigation only for now because the tab does not appear on tablet and phone)
I have an aquarium with 300l 3 discus adults hybrid (3 years old) and a high (5 years old). They are doing well and I have no problems.
The water parameters of the aquarium are : pH 8.3-GH 12 ° -510 uS / cm ammonia and nitrites unmeasurable; nitrates 5 ppm.
I use tap water, which allows me to change frequently 3 x 30% by week.
By reading your articles, and in the songeant altum, I wonder if it would not be better off in a water approaching the original water (sweet and tart).
I have a small reef tank and thus a reverse osmosis plant. I intend to use peat to pH to 6-6,5 – conductivity to 150US / cm and the hardness at 3-4 ° GH.
This will lead me to change only 35-40% week instead of 90% for reasons of storage. Is it sufficient. Which option do you think is the best? Is 35% a week is enough?
Also, I plan to give more dry food, such pellets. They eat very easily. I do not give beef heart. They are fed brine shrimp, krill, mysis, white and black mosquito larvae, molds and pellet.
Also, the pellets alone provide a complete and sufficient food after you? I also intend to give more dry food for reasons of hygiene and ease.
Thanks in advance for your comments
And sorry for the late reply…
Regarding the quality of the water we offer our fish, I'm pretty supporter to offer them what they prefer…
Of course the fish have a tolerance and adaptation, but offer them the optimum; it is also prevent problems.
I do not think we should turn into an extremist of the water test, but it nevertheless seems obvious that a minimum follow-up is needed.
Regarding the volume and frequency of water changes. Those will be related to the population of your aquarium, and configuration.
To find out if the amount of water you plan to be sufficient, it will simply monitor your water parameters. Whether your nitrates do not rise too high, for example.
It is to be monitored, but for maintenance with a reasoned fish population, your project seems consistent.
I will not be the only advise you to keep your animals in group, but if you are getting a well balanced and you do not have behavioral problems… 🙂
Talk endlessly about food… It could be an article all by itself…
For myself close interest in this topic, and have had the chance to meet some specialists; I would say no, the only pellet is not in my view sufficient food.
In addition they are often poorly stored, preserved.
Your objective is the maintenance of your fish, their welfare, coloring, their health, the harmonious growth etc.…
From today, there are extensive studies on a small number of fish species. Species with high economic stakes.
We have little real information about the food "ideal" for a particular species. Of course, thanks to some parallels, deeper knowledge of certain species, observations in-situ, physiological observations etc.… we are able to approach a balanced diet.
But the ideal is the variety of food offered in the knowledge that nothing can replace the fresh or raw food…
So to answer your question, I will tell you that a pair of dry food can be a base goshawks which you can vary your supplements.
I prefer (for prophylactic reasons) use plankton, marine crustaceans. But you can also suggest enchytraeids. The supplements you mention are fine.
Think of freeze-dried foods that can meet your expectations practicality, that can easily be fortified with vitamins and have a good qualitative profile.
These supplements have the feature to boost the gut plays an important role in your fish immunity.
In short, feel free to vary, I would say fresh food 1 once daily in the evening.; a freeze-dried food for the days you do not have too much time.
So, I hope I answered your questions;
Thank you for all you do for your community, your time and all your great advice.
After reading, all comments, However I still have some questions, I will still apply once your generosity advice!
I plan to start my last in this great adventure of fishkeeping. I plan to acquire this aquarium Juwel Vision 450.
Can you already tell me, if this is a good choice? equipment? pump? etc..
Then, for discus, a question that will appear can be beast, I read that they live in communities, but we can in a band mix colors? Or the group must have the same colors and morphology?
Then, I plan to make a tray with plants and soil. I want to know if an injection of CO2 is essential, useful or just a comfort?
Latest issues, I see sites that sell fish on the internet with delivery. Do you already use this method? fish arrive in shape? Or it is not terrible?
Thank you for the time you take to answer. Good day and good Christmas and New Year.
Ulf Good evening and thank you for your compliments,
Those remains a great source of motivation to continue this adventure that lasts now for more than 10 years old…
The Juwel aquariums are among the best selling models in Europe and are a very good price / quality ratio. For discus, you can improve the filter replacing some foams provided original purchase of the aquarium by boxes that are called "CIRAX".
Bacterial colonization surface will be better.
Although it may very well start with the original filtration equipment; many of the discus full of enthusiasts with a small external filter. No need then to take a big model, and it will also improve the water circulation in the aquarium.
You can also alternate the filtration interviews. An added bonus that you can consider.
The model is VSION I find very nice, especially on this type of volume.
Regarding varieties… My opinion is not settled. There are associations to favor. Some varieties are (generally) to avoid mixing. For reasons of relationships but also aesthetics (And between games "taste of history").
From a point of view behavior… there are varieties such as "blue diamond" I would advise generally do not mix with the varieties from "Pigeon". They are generally less swift during meals. Ditto for "albino" I always find more at ease when they are together.
There are others but it would take too long to enumerate…
Question aesthetics, you varieties from the red that do not feed in the same way as other varieties (such as "Snow White", « white butterfly », the Blues…).
For if given a diet rich in pigments for beautiful red… varieties with white tone or become blue for their less attractive… What more damage to get an orange-yellowish discus if we cracked on beautiful discus white as snow…
Also, it is in my opinion (But it is a matter of taste) a uniform color group is the most beautiful effect.
CO2 is not a comfort, it is part of the essential elements for a good plant development. The concern is that it is toxic to fish…
Everything is a matter of dosage. And discus does not like what other fish species tolerate. For me, can diffuse CO2 with discus only if it makes a good control of the distribution and the content present in the water… Otherwise, must refrain from the use.
disseminate little, complete with what is called the "liquid carbon" and of course it coupled with the presence of a Oxydator.
I plan to write an article on the subject… The question is when (!)
Also, there are plants that have low CO2 requirements… Here also, we are on a case by case.
Animals in VPC… it's like any… There are good and less good professionals.
Personally, I am so painful, I prefer to choose myself, leaves to make kilometers…
I allow myself to digress about the purchase and delivery of Discus. Personally I prefer to also move me to make my choice, but on the transport I never practiced, can you give me some advice?
For transportation I already have an idea and I wanted to know what you think… not to exceed 1:30 trip, to no more than two discus by cooler 40 liters and equipped heating coolers + exhausteur + acclimol…
Thank you for your answers.
Good evening Maxime,
Transport is indeed a sticking point for many farmers (animals in the broadest sense).
All work can be ruined because of transportation.
The trip is preparing. First, requires that the fish are fasted 24 to 48 hours before transport (Depending on the size of fish). So, it limits the nitrogenous excretion. Moreover digestion increases the oxygen demand of the animal. And this one will need it…
The transport water should be well oxygenated and clean.
I'm pretty adept transport in individual bags. So, if a stress fish over another; this does not affect other.
There must be an amount of water suitable for fish size. Personally I triple bags.
1:30 For well prepared and not be inflated with oxygen, the transport time does not pose a concern. One can add Acclimol or safe travel of Prodibio.
I can not have clear information on the components of its products in order to better explain their impact on fish.
But it is clear that the trip goes better with this…
It will manage the temperature. polystyrene box, cooler can also be decorated with "heaters" if necessary.
Hoping to bring the information you expected,
Thank you for the information and the speed of your response. Cordially
My last discus death had 4 half years. Aquarium planted without adding anything.
My little experience proves to me that regular water changes and regular cleaning only. Buying discus with transportation is not a problem.
There is a site in Brittany serious I recommend…
Which site in Brittany?
Hello Mr Hoiret,
Another great item!
What is the number and discus size do you recommend for a 450l tank (140x50x70) for the formation of a couple.
I have a settling filter, that advise you as filter media?
And you introduce discus how long after the startup tray? Is the deadline is the same if we add the aquadigest and stop ammo?
A big thank you in advance
Good evening Amaury,
It all depends on the aquarium, its filtration, oxygenation etc.…
If one is in configuration "big tank" with plants, decorations etc.. We will discus least if one is nude tank aquarium and we made changes water often.
So to also increase the likelihood of both sexes, in general aquarium, you can host 6-7 carefree.
In optimized conditions: big filter, oxygenation to the top, frequent water changes etc.. We could put double… But honestly when one begins, as form nicely and not to overload aquariums. By staying well clear of course that they are more numerous and better they are doing…
For decanting filter, For the sub-host media; base is 1/3 the minimum volume in bacterial support (Siporax Type eg) – 2 foams blister (if possible, two different types of pores) and wadding.
One can "customize" this database with eg "Purigen" Seachem.
Unless you have an emergency, it is always best to allow time for life to settle. I await the 3 weeks of operation.
Assume that the bacteria that you place at the beginning are a "starter" for many start the process. It underestimates too often the role they play and the complexity of their "universe"…
The Stop Ammo, see it as a fire extinguisher, or preventive… Prevention is better than cure.
Hoping to have answered your questions,
I have a bin of 450 liters populated for the moment by 10 cardinalis, 8 Corydoras. I intend to raise the population to 15 cardinalis, 10 red noses and 10 corydoras.
Then I want to take myself 6 or 7 discus. Should I quarantine? For this I have a tray of 120 litres.
In this case of figure; and at first, you can actually add all the "small fish" that you intend to put with your discus.
Once you introduce the last of these fish, count a good month. Take advantage of this period to observe these fish well to check that there are no particular problems.. For example in cardinalis and “Red noses” we will be attentive to what I call the “discoloration disease”.
Then once this period of about 1 month and a half past, introduce your discus group at once, taking care to avoid mixing different origins.
Looking forward to seeing you browse the Fanatik-Discus site 😉