Solid color discus
The whole of solid color discus can be divided into 3 branches :
*The discus 100% solid, who have a unique color covering the whole of their body.
*The solid color discus to 90% which I believe have never been always judged according to the work of selection done by the breeders.
*And finally, the discus 'Heckel cross United '. (tank raised fish with solid color and a central black bar) even if those here are few represented in competition.
Indeed, discus solid at 90% are often competing against discus 100% solid and judged with a rating system in favor of the last ones.
This peculiarity disadvantage for example the "cobalt blue" or the "pigeon white butterfly". (I'm talking here about variety). But, Today we need for all varieties to find their place in the competitions so that all phenotypes can have their chance.
In addition, This could award the work of the "old varieties" breeders. (Cobalt blue) but also those of more modern varieties (Pigeon white butterfly).
Solid discus 100%
The discus 100% solid can be divided into 5 branches of level 5 : the blue, the orange, the yellow, the brown, the white.
I would like to insist on being able to offer a categorization with a maximum of stable phenotypes.
Here for example, the solid color discus "orange" would open the door of the contest to the male of "red melon" variet discus too often absent in competitions. The fault of a classification favoring red females placed in the category "red" (and not solid red).
Females would be for their part placed in the branch 90% solid because so far, evolution of the selection has not yet led to a stable 100% solid red. (Even if many breeders are working on this)
It's the same with the "solid brown" phenotype enjoyed by "old varieties" breeders coming too often cannibalized the wild discus categories..
In the "wild" categories ; These "tank raised brown" discus monopolise the podiums at the expense of wild fish. The consequences are measured by the disaffection of the wild discus entries in contest because of tank raised fish (Wild discus look) are far less stressed by captivity.
A small feature should be also noted on the sub branch of level 5 concerning the solid blue discus "Golden blue" deserving I think a standard (As we will see later) suitable with regard to the color. This is indeed not a strong blue but rather a pearly blue.
Some photos to better understand
Left a discus "solid blue"., on the right a «golden blue» discus
Solid orange discus
Solid brown discus (Left no lines in the forehead area should be more desirable)
Left a discus "United yellow.", on the right a white
Solid discus 90%
In the solid color discus to 90% reds is without doubt the most met phenotype in contest.
As I explained above, It is often female individual. The "red" branch is composed of 4 sub-branches : Red Brown, Red, the golden red and white red.
The red tones are different but these phenotypes can be filed together.
Less and less present, the "cobalt blue" discus often suffer of bad classification. Usually ; contest organizers propose a "solid blue" category, and it is a little bit more complicated for these fish to compete face to "Blue Diamond" (Solid blue).
However it is an "old" phenotype which ; If it was better considered, could maybe remobilize old varieties breeders disinclined to appreciate the new varieties.
More recently, the "pigeon butterfly" appeared in competition and the definition of a beautiful subject deserves to be specified.
Some photos to better understand
Left a solid blue 90% large stripes face, right a fine face stripes.
The fish on the left will be too "vestiges" of striations on the anal and dorsal fins. The goal is the mask goshawks eyes . According to the pattern, the subject with fine lines is very good.
Two red brown discus
Red discus (The Red should cover more the beginning of the body)
On the left a «red golden» discus, to right a 'red white '.
A white large face stripes discus
Discus solid Heckel cross
Like the "Pattern Heckel cross", this phenotype is starting to become regular in competition. Even if we still few see them, some breeders are working on these phenotypes. We have to propose them a place.
We find the "Heckel United Brown cross" but also bruises United. The "Heckel cross" on the left picture, There are remains of some stripes (The head area, dorsal fin, anal). The "Heckel United blue cross' also has vestiges of streaks and should be more"United. ". But there is no doubt that breeders selects subjects always more solid blue.
7 comments
Good evening,
really congratulations for this work of categorization and extension !!!
That's all just great.
Kind regards
Hello Jose!
I had the chance to thank you on the forum 'discus with friends. "… But it is with pleasure that I re-edit my thanks!!!
Hope to read you again on Fanatik-Discus!
Yann
Hello Yann,
Your blog helps a lot, Indeed Discus is still not easy, I lost some Discus, often more my fault for not respecting the letter, the conditions necessary for their well-being, I am often confronted with worms, (often gills) now I still am trying to deal with a hospital in my little tray 80 L by a heat cure 35 sure 5 days, is a Alenquer leopard 4/5 month at Stendker, this is the second that has the same worries in no time, the first I managed to save the, but it took me 1 months of continuous attention of every moment.
With all my cordial greetings and to hear from you, and I with the utmost attention.
Hello William,
First of all thank you for your follow! it is always nice to hear… And if the site can help you in one way or another… Well I would say: Goal achieved!!! 🙂
It is true that with a little discipline discus makes us well… showing itself in its most beautiful… This is truly the king of aquarium fish… No doubt!!! (OK… I totally lacks objectivity…)
By cons, if I may, reading your treatment, I think it is rather the intestinal flagellates that make you worry and not to. 😉
This kind of noise is contained with a healthy aquarium and the bottom of the tank; a varied and quality. (Opt for fresh foods like brine shrimp, chopped mussels and mix based "product of the sea" + good granulated under 3 months stored in the refrigerator and dry) During the "recovery" does not hesitate to add an extra "D calcicole" (available in pharmacies) a fresh food once a day. This approximately 15 days.
Also, please worming your animals; because the fish can be infested with worms and flagellates … at the same time…
Stay tuned… there are two to three items in the pipes… 😉
Hope also read on the site 🙂
Yann
Goodnight Yann,
Thank you for your reply, yes flagellates doubled to gills I also think ,since treatment in discus in the hospital tray, rubs lot at the head and breathing very slowly, opening just the mouth and gills also open barely.
So I continue the same treatment as the previous fish that successful.
Hope to read you also
William
Hello Yann,
My youngest hospital tray, Alenquer 4/5 months does not eat for weeks and there was always alone in his corner in his big tray, and I once saw her stools that were white.
First reminder, its main tray is 450 and they are the six, currently my little patient is in a hospital tray 80 The, it attacks its fourth week of treatment and increased monitoring.
The processing conditions were already changing the water every day 50% it is already a minimum.
Already I'm on, is that it was not bacterial, So I started with a thermal cure with temperature rise gradually to 35 ° and maintained for 5 days and temperatures down to 29/30 ° smooth.
But no change after 72 hours in his behavior.
Then I did a treatment flagyl over three days that has not worked either. and either fluvermal
So after a few days off treatment ESHA 2000 pendant 3 days, he made long white droppings 6/ 8 cm, it moves more, but no longer rests on the ground as the first weeks.
I know that's a lot of treatments and I also know that I take risks, it worked for the previous, but there for him that does not work.
He seems to be a little more dynamic, but still do not eat, his breathing level is slow but he barely opens his mouth and gills are very open, So in addition to intestinal worms, I also thought of gill flukes, and that's when I asked myself the question when the proper treatment….. the tremazol ????
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After waiting a few days I started and completed the treatment Trémazol
For information, for further processing of my little Discus Alenquer, I have continued treatment with Tremazol home Will in a small pan 15 liters of water with a small milliliter of Tremazol heated at 29/30 ° and with a substantial oxygenation of the water and this for 6 under surveillance hours and returned to his hospital tray 80 The.
Grosse ejection of long white filament, I would say between 15/20 cm, he seems to be very calm, it has more to stress mark time, but it still does not eat, this makes 21 days he is in his hospital tray 80 l, He rubbed a lot more after this treatment tremazol.
So today I'll still done a water change 50% like every day since the beginning of treatment.
I waited 48 hours to see if it to cause a notable change, but nothing except several times ejecting long white filaments and 24 hours (is 72 hours after the first treatment) I would do again in a new treatment Tremazol under the same conditions.
So I began the fourth week of care and attention but it's getting very long, ( this is the first time this has happened) I hope that this will lead, but it still does not eat, refusal to live food, mash Stendker, granules at Ocean Nutrition Special Discus, Tetra Discus prima, and vitamin, nothing works, I confess that I do not know what to do.
Friendly and to hear from you.
William. B
Hello William,
To avoid being "irrelevant" to comments and questions regarding the article above; contact me on the facebook page of the site.
On Google: page facebook fanatik-Discus
Send me also photos hoping it is not too late…
Yann